Showing posts with label Córdoba. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Córdoba. Show all posts

Monday, February 13, 2012

The bike trip finally begins! ... then ends.

As you may remember, this trip was planned as Argentina par Bicyclettas, and we had spent way too little time in the saddle so far! Minus a few nighttime spins around Buenos Aires, we worried our bikes would think we'd forgotten them!

So after exploring Córdoba for a day we finally set out to begin our two-wheeled Argentine tour!

After a late start packing everything onto the bikes, we eventually had everything strapped down and shoved off to pedal out of the city and into the hills, heading towards a resort town called Carlos Paz about 35km west. We figured this to be a good beginning distance for me, the complete amateur and gave ourselves the afternoon to get there without plans to go any farther that day.

Well, it was hot. Very, very hot. And my legs got tired quickly. Very quickly.

But we made it!

Jake and Jay were very accommodating of my weakness (and not unaffected by the heat themselves) and allowed for many stops en route, even though it's only about 22 miles total, so we cruised into town and plopped down by the huge reservoir that makes Carlos Paz the summer destination it is.










We were hot and sweaty, and a bit dirty from the road.










After a quick dip for Jay (the geese and jet skis put Jake and I off jumping in) we jumped back on the bikes to find some camping, pedaling up river a bit to the packed sites of Las Ribieras. Yes, it's holiday time, but really? Dance music blasting from every campsite at all hours?!




Thankfully a monsoon downpour rolled in for a few hours and confined everyone to their tents. Not-so-thankfully, the thunderstorm covered our tents in dirt and mud.




And now the reason why that day was my first as well as my only day of the bike trip: Handlebar Palsy. I didn't know what it was either and had to google the symptoms I was experiencing and this article came up right away.

Basically every time we stopped to rest, I noticed my hands would be shaking a bit and it was hard to grab, pinch or grip zippers and laces and such getting food or water out. But it's hot, your heart is pumping and your leg muscles are shaking too so this doesn't seem a strange time for weird bodily problems.

When we reached Carlos Paz and rested by the lake for an hour or so, I took stock of my aching thighs and commented that my ring and pinky fingers were numb and tingly, I couldn't straighten them, and pinching zippers or untying straps was nigh impossible. Jake mentioned that he experienced similar feelings in his hands after gripping the handlebars for a long time and it usually went away after a few minutes or hours.

It wasn't until we rode around town and on to the "camping" (as they call campgrounds here), we'd set up, cooked dinner and showered, that I decided to google my symptoms while waiting for a break in the storm to run back to the tent (stop splashing my clean feet, mud!). They hadn't abated and the pins-and-needles feeling was keeping me very conscious of and vocal about it, I'm sure to Jay and Jake's slight annoyance.

WELL, VINDICATION! It IS a legitimate problem! Nerve damage, even!

My symptoms fit the description of Type 1, and the prognosis says nerves regrow at about 1-2mm per day, so if all aggravating factors are removed (ie. bike riding) the hands should recover function in about SIX TO EIGHT WEEKS!! :(

No more biking for Katie.

The effect of all this, besides the frustrating loss of dexterity and the fact that I write like a kindergartner just learning how to form letters, is mostly the bummer of having to travel a different way. We'd planned to bike because we WANTED to go slowly, through little towns, meeting locals in sleepy villages to buy supplies and getting around under our own power.

Not a trip-ender, but definitely a game-changer.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Notes from the Road



On Saturday, the 21st, we departed Buenos Aires for new sites and hopefully less heat. Our little rented Volkswagen Gol kindly supported our three bicyclettas, our gear, and even all of us!

Here are a couple of notes from our drive northwest to Córdoba, the second largest Argentine city and home to like a billion (okay, maybe only 11 or so) universities!




- There are lots of birds on the pampas; big doves, small hawks, long necked birds, vulture like birds, birds beside your car, birds above your car, birds IN FRONT of your car at night!!! ... Luckily they are all still out there being birdy and not dead in our grill.




- It is difficult to go over the speed limit when you're a foreigner in a rental, even when almost everyone is passing you...

- San Antonio de Arecco is a noted "authentic" gaucho town a short drive out of BA, and while it's very quaint and old fashioned, it was also very empty. A perfect snack break pit-stop, though!



- Sunsets and squalls are like those on the ocean but above a flat sea of grass



- Jay fits in a two-door economy, but not well or comfortably

- Wide open plains make for gorgeous clouds / sunsets / thunderstorms / rainbows



- Theme Song of the trip (perhaps even the whole 3 months?):
"When I came to Spain and I saw people partying I thought to myself What the f***?! All day, all night; viva la fiesta! Viva la noche! Viva los DJs! So I called my friend Johnny and I said: Johnny, La genta esta muy loca!"

- You can see Orion in the southern hemisphere, but the poor guy's upside-down!

- The Argentines in Córdoba Province are SERIOUS about their seatbelt control / DUI / headlight check points! We passed through 4 over Saturday night and one more Sunday morning!

- Sleeping in the car behind a petrol station is fine, but check to make sure you're not parked next to a chicken coop/farmyard first and thank me later.


Saturday, January 21, 2012

Buenos Aires photolog y despues


Too amazing NOT to post

So remember how we told you all that we were going to bike out of Buenos Aires heading south and enjoy the beach in this glorious mid-summer weather?

Well, yeah, no.

Apparently everyone and their brother, mother and uncle's extended families heads to the beaches east and south of BA in January and February! And while we knew this to some extent, we were not expecting the extreme heat (90s here in BA!) and what sounds like the annual spring-break-ish type of activities going on down there.

So, after calculating the time and distance and all factors including what already feels like our dwindling time here in Argentina, we've changed our plans!

Today we rent a car and road trip to Córdoba, university capital of South America sooo... should be super quiet and nothing to do ;)

Here are some pics of our three full days in Buenos Aires, which we have found to be busy, hot, old, gritty, colonial, european and american, expensive and cheap and above all, beautiful in so many ways!




BA is heavily Italian, so pizza was our first lunch!




There's this big pink house...




Puerto Moreno is the cool revitalized wharf district




Hello San Telmo Kitties




Beautiful San Telmo, tango capital of the WORLD!








Av. 9 de Julio, it's big. Real big.
















Playing with the nifty fifty (lens) and filters over cappuccinos y fracturas (croissants)!




Stop to juggle in the middle of the biggest avenue in the world? Porqué no?!